1. Can Expansion Tank Be Installed Upside Down
2. Can Expansion Tank Be Installed Upside Down Water

Should a boiler's expansion tank be mounted upside down? That is, on my boiler, the pipe fitting is on the bottom of the expansion tank and the air valve (looks like a tire air valve is on the top. Some websites say that this ncorrect.

Installation Criteria

The very first step to take is to determine which code is the correct one to comply with. A backflow prevention assembly can be installed as a service protection assembly or an internal protection assembly. A service protection assembly is installed at the point of service to a water user; this type of assembly is installed to protect the distribution system from a backflow event. These assemblies come under the control of the State Administrative Code. Each state administrative code has restrictions as to what and where some assemblies can be installed. If the installation is an internal protection assembly, the local adopted Plumbing Code will usually govern the installation. Internal protection assemblies are installed to protect the quality of the drinking water within the water user's building by protecting a specific piece of water-using equipment.

Consider whether this is a brand new installation into a new or existing piping system that is currently without a backflow preventer, or, is it a replacement of an existing assembly already installed? The replacement of a previously installed assembly may still require you to meet existing code. Just because a DC type assembly may have been installed in the past, does not necessarily mean you can assume a DC is the proper type of protection today. When changing out an old assembly that cannot be repaired, first be sure the new assembly meets existing code.

Secondly, The degree of hazard for which the assembly is being installed must also be determined. The degree of hazard can be a health (high) or non-health (low) hazard. High hazard assemblies are the Reduced Pressure Principle Assemblies (RP) and the various types of Vacuum Breakers, Pressure, Spill Resistant or Atmospheric (PVB, SVB, and AVB). The low hazard assemblies are the double check type (DC).

Next, evaluate the type of backflow you are trying to protect against, either backpressure and/or backsiphonage. The RP & DC can be installed to protect against backpressure or backsiphonage. The various types of Vacuum Breakers can only be used to protect against backsiphonage.

Once the code, degree of hazard, and type of backflow is determined, you can look to your list of approved assemblies. The list of approved assemblies is usually established by the administrative authority that has jurisdiction. The different types of backflow prevention assemblies have restrictions as to how they can be used. It is important that they only be used in the same installation orientation and type of protection as determined by the approval agency.

The most recognized approval agency is the USC Foundation for Cross Connection Control & Hydraulic Research. Manufacturers submit their assemblies to the Foundation for approval, which must then go through a lab approval and field approval process. ; Not all assemblies pass the approval process. If an assembly passes approval, it is included in the Foundation's list of approved assemblies. The list indicates, for each assembly, the approved model, size and orientation. .

Once you have all these facts, you are ready to evaluate the considerations of the installation process: the hydraulic conditions, and the mechanical conditions. The hydraulic conditions have to do with the flow of water through the piping system. The mechanical conditions have to do with the pipe, valves and fittings needed to properly install the backflow preventer into a piping system.

The hydraulic considerations of installing a backflow preventer must include sizing, pressure and temperature. In most installations, the size of the piping and the backflow preventer has already been determined by an engineer who evaluated the fixture use of a piping system. If there has not been a hydraulic review of an existing or newly designed piping system, be sure the changes to flow and pressure by the installation of a backflow preventer are evaluated before it is installed. Installing a backflow preventer into an existing piping system can change the workings of some piping arrangements such as irrigation or fire systems.

Some piping systems will require continuous water supply due to their water needs. Applications such as supply services to hospitals are considered critical services where water cannot be discontinued even for short periods of time. This type of critical service will require the installation of parallel backflow preventers to ensure that when one backflow preventer is shut off for servicing, the other preventer will allow water to flow to the piping system. When installing parallel installations, be sure the separate and combined flows of the backflow preventers meet the needs of the water user.

In some cases, piping systems may be improperly sized and subjected to sharp changes in pressure due to excessive demand or flows of water within a piping system. This sudden change to supply pressure of assemblies, such as RP's, can lead to an intermittent discharge from the relief valve. The piping system must be evaluated to determine why the pressure fluctuations are occurring, and to see if the pressure fluctuations can be minimized. A resilient seated check valve at the inlet of the RP may help minimize the effect of pressure fluctuations and minimize any unwanted relief valve discharge.

The pressure that is consumed by an assembly can be calculated by looking to the flow chart for that assembly. Be sure you are observing the flow chart for the correct installation orientation; a flow chart for a horizontal orientation could differ from that of the vertical orientation. Also be sure, when evaluating the pressure loss on a flow chart, that you evaluate the pressure loss at different flow rates. The loss of pressure through a backflow preventer is not the same at all flow rates.

The other consideration is the incoming supply pressure in the piping system. The maximum working water pressure (MWWP) for an assembly is established by the manufacturer and confirmed in the approval process. The assembly should never be subjected to a pressure that exceeds its MWWP. Exceeding this pressure can void any warranties and also may render the backflow preventer inoperative. The excessive pressures present in a piping system can exert an undue stress on the preventer or piping system. If the supply pressure is above the assemblies MWWP, a pressure regulator must be installed. Most plumbing codes do not allow excess pressure without the installation of a pressure regulator. The supply pressure from the Water Purveyor to a water user's piping system is not always constant. Inlet pressure can fluctuate due to conditions such as: level of demand upstream of the point of service, or pumping schedules within the water system. Be sure to evaluate the incoming pressure at different times of the day to assure the actual incoming pressure you will be dealing with. On the upstream side of the assembly, the MWWP must not be exceeded for any reason and the code required minimum pressure must always be delivered to the farthest remote fixture regardless of the equipment it must pass through.

Even if proper pressure parameters are achieved on the upstream side, the downstream side must also be evaluated. When a backflow prevention assembly is installed, a closed system is established on the downstream side. These means any built up pressure in the piping past the backflow preventer is locked into the piping system and cannot escape past a working assembly. Even if the normal incoming line pressure is below the MWWP, excessive pressure can easily be created downstream by pumps, thermal expansion, boilers and other conditions and equipment that can quickly create excess pressure beyond the MWWP on the downstream side. The use of quick closing valves such as electronic solenoids or ball valves can create a water hammer, which can lead to excess pressure being trapped on the downstream side unless some type of pressure and or temperature relief device or expansion tank is utilized. Proper pressure parameters must be evaluated on the upstream and downstream side of the assembly. Normal and abnormal pressure events must be evaluated to assure it does not adversely affect the installed assembly.

The working temperature range of a backflow preventer is established by the manufacturer. The approval agency will confirm the temperature range at which a backflow preventer can function. The application of excessive temperature can cause the backflow preventer to not work properly. Too high of a temperature can affect the strength of some plastics and rubbers. Too low of a temperature can also cause the backflow preventer to become inoperative. The temperature evaluation must be made not only for the fluid temperature, but also the ambient temperature around the installation site, which can change fluid temperature.

Any mechanical equipment can be fouled if water entering the backflow preventer is not free of particulate. When properties other than clean water flow through a backflow preventer, these pieces could lodge into a critical sealing area. To collect these particles, the installation of strainers may help to remove the particles from affecting the backflow preventer. A strainer cannot be installed in any piping arrangement without proper evaluation of rules and hydraulics.

If a backflow preventer is installed for service protection, many cross connection control program rules do not allow the installation of any connection before a backflow preventer. A strainer usually has a blow off hole to remove the accumulated particles from the piping system. In some cases, this blow off hole is improperly used as a connection to piping fixtures before the assembly, such as irrigation connections or hose bibs. If a strainer is needed before a service protection assembly, be sure to consult with your local administrative authority before proceeding.

Strainers can usually be installed in front of internal protection backflow preventers. Strainers will affect the flow of water into a piping system. A strainer contains screens, which will restrict the volume of water that can flow past it. Strainers cannot be installed where this reduction in effective area leads to a restriction that prohibits the working of the piping system; for example, in installations such as fire or irrigation systems. When strainers must be installed, be sure the piping system will still work properly. Regardless of where the strainer is installed, it must be periodically serviced by cleaning the screen and removing any accumulated particles.

Once we get past the problems of hydraulics, we must look to the mechanical concerns of installing a backflow preventer. The first concern to evaluate is the installation orientation. Backflow preventers must be installed in the installation orientation for which they were designed and approved (vertical, horizontal etc.). There are backflow preventers that can be installed horizontally, vertically (up or down) and other orientations that can make an installation easier. The key point to realize however is that they can only be installed in the orientation that the approval agency has determined they will work in. Some manufacturers may state that it is acceptable to them to install in other orientations, but you need to be sure it is listed on your list of approved assemblies in that orientation.

When installing any backflow preventer, it is important that it be installed into the piping system properly. The type of pipe and piping connections used are established in various piping codes for your specific area, and must be followed. The proper installation of braces, brackets, mounting pads or supports assures that the installed backflow preventers will continue to work properly. It is important that all pipe, valve and fittings are of the correct material and installed as required. The weight of the assemblies, the attached piping, and the force of moving water are all substantial concerns, and must be properly evaluated. Even the forces needed to take assemblies apart for servicing could cause problems if the piping is not securely installed.

Another key concern is accessibility to the assembly once it is installed. All backflow preventers require some type of regular inspection and servicing. To assure this inspection and service is done properly, an adequate work space must be left around the backflow preventer. This space will vary depending on the type and size of backflow preventer that is installed. The installation of the backflow preventer must be in a location where access is not restricted by piping, walls or any other restriction.

The installations of assemblies in areas where the entry or exit are restricted are considered confined spaces. Installing assemblies in areas that are classified as confined spaces requires specific entry and exit protocols by the technician to ensure that there is no danger entering into the confined space, such as lack of oxygen or accumulation of dangerous gases. Since backflow preventers must be periodically serviced, it is important that the backflow preventer be installed where it is easy and safe to get at or around it for maintenance or testing.

The height at which the assembly is installed in relation to the surrounding grade is also important. Some assemblies, such as RP's, have key minimum height requirements to ensure that the relief valve will not be submerged or engulfed. PVB's must be installed at a minimum of 12' above the highest point of use and any downstream piping to assure it works correctly. Most Plumbing Codes also establish maximum height requirements. These are done to assure maintenance is properly performed. Most codes state if installation heights greater than 5 feet above grade must be used, a permanent work platform must be built around the assembly for servicing.

Installing assemblies that can discharge water (RP, RPDA, PVB, SVB) can lead to another set of concerns. Water that can discharge from assemblies does not usually cause any concern when installed outside; however, when assemblies are installed inside buildings, the discharge is usually piped away to a drain. This drain piping must be properly installed so a cross connection is not created between the drain and the assembly discharge. Most manufacturers of RP's also produce an air gap drain attachment that assures that the proper separation is achieved from the relief valve discharge and the drain line. An air gap drain is designed to carry away an occasional dripping or mild discharge only. The full discharge of the RP is well beyond the capacity of the air gap drain attachment.

A backflow preventer may be required to be installed outside of a building where the weather environment can affect the backflow preventer. Enclosures may need to be installed around a backflow preventer to assure the backflow preventer's temperature parameters are maintained. Enclosures can also be installed for vandal control to restrict who can operate the piping system. Enclosures can also be placed around assemblies for aesthetic reasons to minimize their intrusion into a landscape.

Backflow preventers are installed to protect against an identified hazard be it high or low. Use the following checklist to properly and successfully install a backflow preventer:

• Evaluate the degree of hazard
• Evaluate the type of backflow (backsiphonage & backpressure)
• Follow the manufacturer's restrictions as to its working parameters
• Use the list of approved assemblies to select the proper backflow preventer
• Ensure that the hydraulics of the piping system are not adversely affected by the installation of the backflow preventer
• Evaluate all mechanical considerations
• Once you have it installed properly, DON'T FORGET TO TEST IT.

Recently, my wife and I spent several days out of town, working on a project. When we got back home on Saturday night, I was ready for a long, hot shower. I unloaded the truck, and schlepped the contractor bag full of dirty laundry into the basement. Having been blessed with keen powers of observation, I immediately noticed the largish puddle that had formed under our water heater. I muttered a string of special phrases common to homeowners and DIYers, ending with something along the lines of “Just what I wanted to do tomorrow – replace a water heater.” There may have been an adjective or two in there, which I have omitted to maintain our PG-13 rating…

When you’re getting ready to replace a water heater, the first thing to do is to take a look at your old water heater, and make some notes of dimensions and parts you’re likely to need. Just be aware, there’s an unwritten rule (until now) that you will NEVER get every part you need on the first trip. Make a note of the height and width of the old water heater. If you can match the dimensions fairly closely, you can save yourself some re-plumbing. Also be aware that if your water heater is in a tight space, such as a closet or recessed area, you need to make sure the new unit will fit in the same space.

When you go go shopping to replace a water heater, some other items you’re likely to need include:

– Two water heater connection hoses (they come in various lengths)
– Teflon tape
– Pipe dope, aka pipe joint compound
– A small brass wire brush
– A water heater pan, if you don’t already have one
– A discharge pipe to connect to the pressure relief valve

The tools required to replace a water heater are pretty basic: A pipe wrench, an adjustable wrench, and a screwdriver or two to connect the flue cap on a gas water heater, or access the wiring on an electric model.

If you’re adding an expansion tank, you’ll need to decide where it will be located, then figure out what fittings you’ll need to plumb it in. I recommend including a shutoff valve, so you can isolate the tank for repairs if needed. If you’ll be sweating any pipes together, make sure you have enough solder, flux and emery cloth, a pipe cutter, and small round wire brushes for cleaning fittings. And, of course, a torch and fuel.

There are different sizes and brands of expansion tanks available; the specs are available online, to help you decide what size to get. Getting an oversized tank is OK; getting an undersized tank is not OK. For our 50-gallon water heater, I got a 4.5 gallon tank. The tank I got can be installed right side up, upside down, or horizontally; make sure the tank you choose can be installed the way you want it. The expansion tank weighs several pounds, and if water expands into it, will be even heavier. Get some strapping, preferably copper, to support the weight. Some tanks also have mounting bracket kits available, in case you want to go all upscale…

The other thing you’ll need if you’re adding an expansion tank is a water pressure gauge. When you install the tank, you need to match the air pressure in the tank to the water pressure in the pipes. You can pick up a cheap but accurate gauge at the home improvement store for about ten bucks.

A final consideration as you get ready to replace a water heater: They’re HEAVY. The model I got weighs 165 pounds. Most places that sell water heaters will help you get loaded up, but make sure you have a strong friend waiting when you get home. Most water heaters can be transported lying down; check with the seller. If you do lay it flat, make sure the control panel isn’t on the bottom.

Replace A Water Heater – Out With The Old

Disconnecting your dead water heater is usually pretty straightforward. Step one is to take away its fuel source. If it’s an electric water heater, turn the breaker off, and double-check with a voltage tester. Open up the panel where the wiring goes in, and disconnect everything. For gas heaters, shut off the gas supply, then disconnect the flexible supply line from the old water heater. Note: Save the black pipes used to attach the flexible supply line to the water heater; you can clean up the threads and re-use them, assuming they’re not badly corroded.

Now you have to drain that thing. Shut off the cold water supply valve. If there isn’t a separate shutoff for the water heater, trace the cold water line back and see if there’s a shutoff upstream. If not, you’ll have to shut off the water at the main shutoff.

Can Expansion Tank Be Installed Upside Down

Connect a short length of hose to the drain valve at the bottom of the water heater, and run it over to a floor drain. If there is no floor drain, you may have to use a small pump to pump the water into a utility sink or outside. To break the airlock and help the water drain, open the hot water faucet furthest from the water heater (don’t forget to turn that off later).

If you have a gas water heater, remove the flue pipe while the water is draining. Be careful; flue gases can make these pipes VERY hot. Once the H2O is gone, it’s time to disconnect the water heater from the hot and cold pipes. Usually, there is a short flexible connector between the pipes and the water heater. Disconnect the connectors from the water heater first, then from the pipes. Use two wrenches to avoid twisting the pipes. Your best bet for a leak-free result when you replace a water heater is to chuck the old connectors and replace them. Most retailers that sell water heaters have a good assortment of new connectors available.

All disconnected? Tip it back, and roll it out of the way. If the floor is wet, like ours was (sigh), get it as dry as possible before putting your new water heater in position.

Most times, when you replace a water heater, it’s a great idea to add a water heater pan. This is especially true if your water heater lives in finished space, such as in a closet or up on a main floor of your house. The pans have a drain outlet built in, which can be connected to a floor drain. Given our recent history, I grabbed a pan when we picked up the water heater.

Eyetv serial key. Mar 26, 2016. The above didn't work for me. I followed this link instead: I then downloaded the 'EyeTV Reporter' application which enabled me to make a full backup and re-installation my copy of EyeTV on my new Mac (without being. Jan 21, 2013 - 4 min - Uploaded by Lloyd OwenIF YOU CAN'T SAVE HOSTS: 8U1sNzrK9bI&feature=youtu. Zetro wrote L3Q9P-QKJGQ4K-HGPCVKX-HRCWSTZ BCWS8-RRWA7AN-574N544-ALR8JEG MHTYD-8G5MJQU-PLPNCSP-JS2DHQR let me know if those work. None of them work. 0useful; 1not useful. Posted: Fri Feb 01, 2013 2:52 pm. 1K Rainmaker. Status: Offline. Joined: Jul 26, 20116. Mar 30, 2012 - 3 min - Uploaded by JiglesworthHow To Get FREE Activation Key for EyeTV - Duration: 0:21. Minimal Steeze 924 views 0:21. Lost Activation Keys. Step One: Enter your email address. Enter the email address you used to register or purchase your Elgato product, then click Continue. Email Address: Confirm: We will email you your activation keys right away. About Elgato Imprint Partners Press Room Privacy and Terms of Use Contact Us.

Handy HomeFixated tip: As I mentioned, water heaters are HEAVY. I did the installation by myself, and trying to lift the water heater up over the lip of the pan wasn’t working out too well. Ever resourceful, I grabbed a couple of scrap boards, and piled them next to the drain pan, just above the height of the rim. I rolled the water heater onto the boards, and over the edge into the pan. Water heater in, sides not crushed – all good!

Replace A Water Heater – And Add An Expansion Tank

This section only applies if you’re adding an expansion tank to your “replace a water heater” project. It’s incredibly interesting and informative, but if it doesn’t apply, feel free to skip the fun, and head down to the “Hookup” section.

Expansion tanks are required by code in many areas now – with good reason. When the water in your water heater gets hot, it expands. When it expands, it has to go somewhere. In the past, the most common avenue for that extra agua to escape was back into the water supply. However, many municipalities require back flow preventers or check valves, which trap the water in the house pipes, making it a “closed system.” If the pressure builds up too much, and the expanded volume of water has nowhere to go, very bad things can happen.

The expansion tank generally gets connected to the cold water inlet of the hot water tank. (Check the instructions that come with your tank). The tank I bought had to be located at least 18” away from the water heater’s inlet. It can be placed further away, but they recommend installing it within a few feet of the water heater.

Find a nearby location to install the tank. Keep in mind that you’ll have to run the cold water supply to it, so look for a spot with few or no obstructions. Also remember to leave clearance for your water heater’s vent pipe, if it’s a gas water heater.

Unfortunately, my water heater was right next to a support beam on one side, and a walkway I didn’t want to block on the other. The original setup for the cold water supply was a horizontal 3/4” copper pipe, with a 90 degree elbow to bring it down toward the water heater. I decided to take out the elbow and replace it with a T fitting. The pipe would then continue straight through the support beam (after I took a little chunk out of it with a hole saw), with the base of the T heading down toward the water heater.

I added a shutoff valve in the line right after it came through the hole in the support beam. A shutoff valve only costs a few bucks, and will make any future servicing a lot easier. I added a 90 degree elbow after the shutoff, and inserted a short length of copper pipe pointing downward, with a 3/4” female fitting sweated onto the end to accept the male threads on the expansion tank.

I used some copper strapping attached to the ceiling for added support, made sure the new valve for the expansion tank was in the OFF position, and got ready to put everything back together, as told in “The Hookup” section.

The Pressure Is On

As part of the expansion tank installation process, you have to match the air pressure inside the expansion tank to the water pressure in the pipes. Normal residential water pressure is between 40 and 60 p.s.i. When I attached my newly-purchased water pressure gauge, the reading spiked to over 140 p.s.i. – and stayed there.

Thinking “No WAY that’s right,” I tried it on another faucet. Same thing. I still figured I must have a faulty gauge, but I called our water company, to see what the normal pressure is in our ‘hood. They said the pressure on our street averages 162 p.s.i. Damn! At least I knew my $10 gauge was probably good.

Since the expansion tank I bought isn’t designed to work at pressures over 80 p.s.i., this added another task to the “while we’re at it” list – replacing the pressure reducing valve. The new valve would take two days to arrive, and I wanted to get the water heater installed and cranking the hot water NOW. Fortunately, having the shutoff valve for the expansion tank allowed me to finish my “replace a water heater” project without waiting for the pressure reducing valve to arrive.

Replace A Water Heater – The Hookup

When you replace a water heater, once the new water heater is in position, the hard part is pretty much over. With the exception of schlepping the old tank out of there; hopefully you’re still on good terms with whoever helped you lug the new one in…

Now it’s time to get the new water heater connected to the house’s water system. Make sure you clean the threads on the connectors coming off the hot and cold water pipes, using an inexpensive brass or steel wire brush. They’re likely to have a little corrosion, and some chunks of old teflon tape and/or pipe joint compound. Do a test fit, to make sure the connectors you got are long enough. If they’re close but not quite there, sometimes you can save the day by simply rotating the water heater a bit. If not, get a good measurement, and it’s time for a bonus trip to the plumbing supply store.

Wrap some teflon tape around the male fittings on the water heater and the house pipes. When I replace a water heater, I like to also use a bit of pipe dope on the connections – just don’t go crazy.

Snug up all the fittings and slowly turn the water valve back on. Make sure your hot water faucet is still open, to allow air to escape from the system. Check to make sure none of your connections are leaking; if they are, snug ‘em up. Keep the water cranked until the tank is full, and water is running from your hot water faucet without spitting air, then close the hot water faucet.

While the tank is filling, connect your power source. If it’s an electric heater, make the electrical connections shown in the directions that come with the water heater. If it’s gas, hook up the gas line. When you replace a water heater, you should be able to re-use all the black galvanized pipe you took from the old heater. Just make sure to clean all the threads well, and use pipe dope (sealant) on all the threaded connections. And don’t forget to test for leaks!

Once that’s done, connect the discharge pipe to the water heater’s temperature/pressure relief valve. Some water heaters have the valve on top, most have it on the side. The valve is threaded, and the store where you bought the water heater is likely to carry a very inexpensive discharge pipe that threads right into the valve. The pipe I bought was less than four bucks. Spread a little pipe dope on the threads before installing it. You’ll probably have to trim the pipe to length; make sure it ends above the top of the water heater pan.

Can Expansion Tank Be Installed Upside Down Water

When you replace a water heater, there’s one other important item for gas water heaters: Make sure you connect the flue vent pipe. It should be angled upward all the way out, and there should be no gaps or holes in it. Small openings can be sealed with foil tape (not duct tape); if the pipe is badly corroded, replace it. Also make sure the pipe and flue outlet aren’t blocked. You don’t want to die from carbon monoxide poisoning right after you get your sporty new water heater installed! Our chimney had quite a bit of blockage I had to remove, from chunks of mortar that had tumbled down inside the chimney.

Once the water tank is full, and your electrical or gas connections are all set, follow the instructions that came with it to get the water heater heating! You’ll probably have to adjust the temperature a day or so after making the initial setting; I set ours at the med-hot setting, and it was HOT. A lower temp setting will help save energy, and help avoid accidental burns, especially if there are kids or oldsters on the premises. If you’re installing an expansion tank, read on; if not, you have special dispensation to skip to the final paragraph.

Installing An Expansion Tank? Get Pumped!

Once the new water heater is all set, it’s time to add the expansion tank. It’s pretty simple once you’ve got all the plumbing done for it, and only takes a few minutes. Assuming you don’t have to add or replace your water pressure reducing valve along the way…

The pressure in the expansion tank has to match the pressure in your home’s water lines. When I put the new reducing valve in, I adjusted it to set a pressure just over 60 p.s.i. This meant the expansion tank had to be pumped up to the same pressure. The expansion tank has an inflation valve on it, similar to those on a car or bike tire. Using a bicycle pump, I pumped (and pumped and pumped) until the pressure on the expansion tank also read just over 60 p.s.i.

After that, all I had to do was spread some pipe dope on the tank’s threads, screw the expansion tank into the threads on the hanging connector, and open the shutoff valve. Woohoo – fully protected and code compliant!

And that’s it – your quest to replace a water heater is complete! Hot water has been restored, and the universe is once again in balance. And so is your water pressure, if you installed an expansion tank. The job wasn’t all that hard (after getting the water heaters up and down the stairs), and you’ve saved several hundred dollars, and earned the respect and admiration of all. Now you can hit the showers!